How to use Tire Blocks the Right Way

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How to use Tire Blocks the Right Way

RVers use Tire Blocking to keep their RV level. There will be times at the RV Park or in rough terrain where your unit will be on a slope and the only way to keep your RV level is by using Tire Blocking. Even your jacks will not fully be able to get you level in these situations.

If you haven't used Tire blocks already, at some point you will because its really important for your RV to sit level. Setting your RV level will keep the refrigerator working properly and keep your dinner plate from sliding off the table. There is a correct way to use Tire Blocks. If Tire Blocking is not done correctly, it can cause permanent damage to your RV tires and can also lead to a tire malfunction on the road.

Most RV's (And most automobiles) are equipped with radial tires. That means that the tire has steel wires in the rubber to give it more durability. Although, when you are blocking a radial tire you want to make sure the bottom of the tire is rested completely on the block and is supported by the block. If the block is only supporting a portion of the tire surface it can cause the Steel wires to kink or fracture.

Keep in mind you can also use Tire Blocks to keep your jacks from sinking in the sand. Just place the blocks under the jack foot and make sure that the whole surface area of the foot rests on the block.

1. Keep the alignment of force centered on the blocks. Look at the tire, imagine a center line drawn through it and that will also be the center of your block.

2. Make sure the surface (footprint) of the tire is supported by the block

3. Make sure the tread or sidewall is not pushed in or out but laying normally onto blocks (This will ensure Steel wires are supported correctly).

Leveling Blocks, also called Stacker Blocks, Jack Pads and Stabilizer Pads are available at most RV Parts stores and some Hardware stores. There are a variety of options. You can even build your own custom blocks out of wood if you dont want to purchase them. Most RVers purchase the red or yellow blocks because they are light weight and easy to store.

Click below for more info on CAMCO brand Leveling Blocks:

Editor: R.C. Norman

How do I get an accurate reading of the charge on my RV battery?

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Question:

We have an older unit; 2001 R-Vision. I have a question about the little colored panel lights regarding the level of charge the battery is at in our RV. Are those lights accurate in regards to the charge level on the battery on ours and even the newer RVs? If not what would you recommend as a good accurate battery tester to determine the percentage of discharge?

Answer: 

Great question!

The light gauge inside the RV is not very accurate. It is there to give you a ball park reading. If no power is being used, that is when the gauge is the least helpful. If the unit is turned on or you are using power, that is when it is the most accurate (But again the gauge gives only an estimated charge reading).

The most accurate way to know the charge/discharge of your Battery is with a product by Zamp Solar called Battery Check (Wireless Battery Management). This product can be used in use with your cell phone (No Solar panels needed). This product retails for about $269.99. It gives:

- Real time Battery Data (Volts, amps, time remaining, temperature, battery status, state of charge and battery health)

- A free downloadable app for your phone

- Easy installation (DIY)

- Settings for automatic alarms with use on your app

Editor: R.C.Norman

How do I get the most out of my RV Battery?

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How do I get the most out of my RV Battery?

RV Batteries are consumable items and will eventually need to be replaced. But while in use we want to use that battery for as long as we can to get the most out of it. Here is some information to help you get the most out of your battery.

Understanding Charge Cycle

One key to understanding how to maximize your battery life is knowing the charge cycle. Batteries store electricity and when the electricity is used it must be recharged. The battery "Cycle" is a discharge and a recharge. The battery life is exactly how deep the battery was "Cycled" and a "Deep Cycle" is for example, taking a 100% charge and running it down to a 15% charge then charging back 100%.

Great Tip: A battery that is never used below 50 percent of its Cycle will last roughly twice as long as a battery that has been Deep Cycled past 50 percent. Avoid using your battery past 50% (Deep Charge) of its holding capacity. Another great tip is to charge your battery right away after use or discharge. The sooner the better.

Editor: R.C. Norman

How to properly inflate your RV tires

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Where the rubber meets the road!

Your tire footprint or the small surface of your tire that actually meets the road is roughly 4x6 in size (Of course depending on the inflation). This is the only connection between your RV and the pavement.

Considering this, the footprint is quite small in comparison to the RV, yet this footprint is responsible for sending you down the road at various speeds with various weight. If your RV tires are improperly inflated, it can actually reduce the size of your footprint and affect the performance of your vehicle. Remember, your RV is not like a car or truck. It contains a lot of weight and it is much taller requiring even better traction to keep it moving safely.

The best air pressure for each tire is determined by the weight it is carrying. This ideal inflation will give you the best traction on the road.

How to inflate properly:

1. Find the gross vehicle weight and the axle weight on the Certification label of your RV usually on the side near the fender. Record those weights.

2. Load up your RV with water and belongings.

3. Then go weigh your rig.

4. Use your Scale ticket to validate the weights versus the maximums on your vehicle. Locate the load and proper inflation tables for your tires on the certification label or in your owner’s manual.

5. Determine your tire pressures from the tables.

6. Finally, inflate your tires to the correct pressure and you’re on the road!

      Author: R.C. Norman

Dump Station 101

Dump Station 101

The first thing to know is that Dump stations are usually located at rest stops off the highway or on private campgrounds. It is helpful to do a search online to be aware of the stations you will be using.

1. Have a good Sewer hose

 Make sure you have a good RV sewer hose with tight connections. It may be smart to find one that is clear so that you can see when the black tank is done emptying. It also helps to have latex gloves with some baby wipes to keep yourself and the station sanitary.

2. Make sure your Gate valve seals are in good shape. 

Over time they can wear down and allow leakage from your Black Tank. You don't want to go to open your valve get a surprise rush of black water before your ready. It can be a mess for the Station and for you. Check your Waste Dump valves and seals regularly.

3. Dump your tanks in the right sequence

Always dump your RV black water first. When the black tank is empty then dump your grey water. The grey water will then rinse out your hose after the black tank has poured. This will help to stay sanitary as possible while emptying your tanks at the dump station.

Author: R.C. Norman

5 Steps on RV Roof Maintenance

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Give your RV Roof some Lovin'!

For many of us, we get lazy at maintaining our cars let alone a huge RV. Sometimes the only thing holding us back is an unclear idea of the work ahead. Well, I hope to give you some inspiration and take the guess work out of maintaining your RV Roof.

1. First, give your whole RV a nice wash:

 A lamb hair cloth/glove works well. You will also need an extending cleaning brush to reach the unreachable areas. (You can find these at any hardware store). For RV Wash, I like to use the Thetford RVWash and Wax. It removes black streaks, dried bugs, bird droppings, dirt and road film. It’s just a good all-around cleaner. It takes a little time to clean a large RV, but remember you’re loving on your RV right now. If you are too busy or just cannot get yourself settled on the task, you can always bring your RV to a local RV Dealer or Service shop. They will charge you roughly $7.5 a lineal foot. (For a 31ft Motor home your total will be roughly $235). Yes it is a cost but understand that routine care and inspection will save you a lot more money in the long run.

2. Next, clean the Roof Sealant: 

You will need Gloves (Nitrile gloves will do), mineral spirits, a rag and a toothbrush. Pick the back or the front and slowly move from one end to the other (I like using a left to right pattern to carefully reach every inch of the roof). You will see black or green grime on the sealant and in crevasses. You will want to remove all of that or as much as possible. Mineral spirits can be used directly on the sealant. The toothbrush will help with smaller spaces and hard to reach areas). You want to carefully get every space on the roof clean.

3. Investigate your Roof Sealant:

Now that the roof is clean and dry, inspect your RV roof thoroughly; start from either the back or the front and slowly move to the other end of the RV taking care to inspect every inch of the Roof (Like I said before, I like to move in a left to right pattern). It’s always good to bring a marker with you so you can mark any smaller cracks that are not as noticeable but need to be dealt with. Keep an eye on attachments. Anything protruding out of the roof or attaching to the roof you want to inspect thoroughly.

4. I see cracks! 

If there are cracks. You can seal it yourself or take it to your local Service Shop.

5. Get it Covered!

 If your RV is stored outside, get a really good RV cover. This will help protect it from the heat which can cause cracking in your sealant and moisture which can seep into your RV walls and roof. A good brand is ADCO Aquashed.

Author: R.C. Norman

What do I need to do to get my RV ready for Spring after storing it?

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What do I need to do to get my RV ready for Spring after storing it?

Answer: 

First, you want to do a good Inspection of the RV.

Its always a good rule to check your owners manual for any required maintenance. Walk along the outside of the RV and check the inside thoroughly for anything that looks unfinished, cracked or out of place. Windows and doors are especially important when looking for leaks, damaged seals or cracking. Next in line is your roof and all your vents. While your at it, check all your Carbon Monoxide and Smoke detectors to see if they are working properly.

Batteries & Electrical:

Clean, test and charge your batteries. (This should be done every season when storing your RV).

Then Run your Generator (If you have one). Run your Generator and check all the appliances inside and outside to make sure everything is working correctly. Next, check your Water Heater. You will want to drain and flush your Water Heater. (Always make sure the tank is refilled before lighting the burner.

Propane:

After getting all the electrical testing out of the way, its time to check your Propane.

Check the tanks, lines and hoses to see if there is anything that does not look right. If all looks good, turn on the propane at the tank. A great way to check for leaks is to mix soap with little water and pour around connections to see if any bubbles appear. If bubbles do appear, you have a leak. It may just be a loose connection so make sure everything is tight and secure. If everything is tight and there are no leaks, go turn on the stove to make sure everything is working properly. It could take a little time for the propane to reach the stove if your RV has been stored all season. That is normal.

Tanks:

Check your waste tank valves. Connect to a dump station and then pull your waste valve handles. Pull the handles slowly and move them in and out to make sure they are in good working order.

Next, clean out your fresh water tanks. Here is a step by step procedure:

-Run 1 cup of bleach with 60 gallons of water through the tank

-Open all the inside water faucets  to let the water pour through

- In 4-5 hours drain the water and fill the tank with fresh clean water

-Lastly, open all the faucets inside and drain the water one last time.

Editor: R.C. Norman

How should I use my Black and Grey tanks?

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   How should I use my Black and Grey Tanks?

Number one, keep a few gallons of water in the black tank so you have a layer of water. If you don't, you will get clogs, clumping or maybe even a false reading from your tank. Then put an RV Toilet treatment into the black tank. Aqua Chem toss-ins are a great product to use. Put one of these in your tank after every dump. It breaks down the waste and eliminates odors.

   Number two, use only RV safe products in your tank. You will need to use RV toilet paper. It is designed specifically for RV tanks. Nothing else should go down your RV black tank except RV toilet paper and waste.
   Three, always keep your black tank closed. The reason for this is that if the black water is draining the waste will build up and clog your drain. Also its not a good idea for waste water to be draining due to health concerns to the public.

    When ready to dump your black tank; some Campgrounds have full hook-ups or a dump station. Always be looking for that. There are also Dump stations located along the major highways and also on private locations. Truck stops and rest stops often have dump hook-ups. Including car and truck washes. The best rule is to look up dump stations online while planning your trip.
When ready to dump your tanks. Always dump the black tank first, then dump the grey tank. The grey tank will help to flush out the black after it is emptied.

Editor: R.C. Norman